Tuesday, December 11, 2012

Lessons from the LT

I learned many things from my short time on the LT, and I hope to apply them to my next thru-hiking attempt at it. My goal here is to give my impressions and a description of how they will change my next attempt.
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1. Water is amazingly abundant!

I should begin this section by saying I'd only very briefly hiked in the Northeast prior to this trip and that, growing up in Colorado, we are taught that water is a precious thing in the backcountry. This is a concept that I'm pretty sure doesn't apply in Vermont. Everywhere you look there is water - be it a lake, stream, mud, or rain itself. In doing research about the LT, I read through guides, databooks, viewed photos, and spoke with those that had hiked the trail in the past - none of it prepared me for the sheer amount of water available. In contrast, take my Shakedown Hike of the Colorado Trail: despite having a guidebook and databook, we were still hard pressed to find water even when it was listed as abundant. So, to any future hikers of the LT, be assured there is richly available water along the trail.


So, how will this alter my next attempt at the LT? In terms of gear, we will carry 1/2 of the water (so, 1.0 liter instead of 2.0 liters) at any given time. While it was nice only filling up our water bottle 1-2 times a day, the extra water weight (~2.2 pounds) definitely slowed us down. Additionally, I'll carry AquaMira instead of a water filter. The choice to carry a filter is something that I regretted immediately and had planned to swap out at my first opportunity. The original concern was Ramius' propensity to drink treated water, but I've since tested it and found he has no reservations whatsoever. Finally, I'm going to have to purchase a new pack or deal with the added weight of a pack cover. Don't get me wrong - I love my Fluid48, but my setup (packliner) ended up adding weight to my pack when it rained since the pack became waterlogged. My ideal pack is the ZPacks Blast 30, which is inherently waterproof and eliminates the need for either a pack liner or pack cover.

The one lingering concern I have about the amount of rain experienced is Ramius' fear of it. My hope is that he'll eventually overcome it, and I will do my best to rid him of it as soon as possible.
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2. Shelter-hopping is the way to go

AT and LT hikers are spoiled rotten - they're provided with shelters reasonable distances apart that offer them so many advantages! And, yes, I'm aware that leaks, crowding, and rodents are sometimes problems along both trails. But those issues are quite minor when one considers the amount of rain experienced, the pack weight saved, and the relatively lower number of hikers that use the shelters along the LT than on the AT.

Having hiked in the rain many times, I can tell you that having to set up a shelter in the rain - while try to keep the inside dry - is majorly difficult. And, once you've gotten inside of your shelter, you and your gear are most likely soaked anyway. Finally, you have to dry out your shelter the next day - something that takes away from hiking time, exposes your shelter to possible damage, and/or sometimes isn't possible due to continued rainfall. By shelter-hopping, all of these potential problems are avoided.

After setting up our tent in the rain.
That said, one runs the risk of not finding a berth once arriving at a shelter. Luckily the LT has low enough traffic rates that the chance of this happening is pretty low. Plus, the low traffic ensures finding the shelter in better condition in terms of rodents (i.e., fewer) and overall physical shape.


Perhaps the most significant advantage of shelter-hopping is the reduced pack load. This past summer I was carrying 34 ounces-worth of shelter/shelter gear. By switching to a shelter-hopping strategy and carrying a ground-cloth and tarp (~9 oz total), I can save over 1.5 pounds. A lighter pack means more trail miles and more trail miles means I'll be more able to end my days near a shelter. And, should a shelter be full, I will still have the tarp to fall back on.
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3. Confidently use a bounce box

A bounce box is simply a package that you continuously send 5-10 days ahead of where you are on the trail so that you may access the contained supplies when you arrive at your destination. Many people seem to confuse the purpose of the bounce box with that of care packages and suggest that you ask someone to mail you said care packages instead since that should save on shipping. Bounce boxes should be small and contain only what you will need when in town (e.g., phone and camera chargers) so that you don't end up having to carry that extra weight whilst on the trail.

The LT has a great bunch of post offices along its length, each full of employees that understand the rigors of hiking the LT and who will often hold packages longer that the typical 2 weeks if the box is marked 'Hold for LT hiker.' It is because of this robust and reliable grouping of post offices that I have complete confidence that both food parcels and a bounce box will reach their destination and remain there until I'm able to pick them up.
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4. Itinerary? Maybe.

I set out with a defined itinerary and was immediately off schedule - a fact that gnawed at me. I'm quite torn about their use and am unsure whether or not to use one in the future. That said, they do offer an advantage when shelter-hopping, sending food packages, and using a bounce-box - advantages that are quite relevant an a trail like the LT.


So, will I use an itinerary in the future? Probably. Will I stick to it? Probably not. Will we be off schedule at some point? Probably. Will I let it irk me again? Hopefully not.
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5. Dog on the trail? No problem!

Figuring out how to get Ramius to and from Vermont, within a set budget, was perhaps the most nerve-racking part of planning my LT hike. That said, once we were on the trail things were simply wonderful. Whether in town, on the trail, or attempting to find space in a shelter, Ramius was always warmly received - and I was thoroughly relieved. Dog owners are quite spoiled in Boulder County: most stores allow dogs inside, Boulder OSMP allows dogs off-leash after taking an online survey, and there are many dog parks available around the county. As mentioned above, I hadn't spent much time hiking in the Northeast prior to this excursion, and I had wondered what the atmosphere on the trail would be like and how many changes I might have to make coming from such a dog-friendly city.


Now, would I have had the same experience with a dog twice his size? I don't know. Ramius takes up little to no room in a shelter (we share a sleeping bag) and is very well mannered in terms of social niceties (e.g., he won't jump up). We encountered a few other dogs along the trail, but none at shelters, so I can't say whether or not other, larger dogs have more difficulties in terms of finding berths in shelters. In any case, I'm hopeful that our next LT attempt will prove just as satisfying as a dog owner. 
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6. The Long Trail Culture

Being the oldest long-distance hiking trail in the country, the LT has had ample time to develop a culture of its own. From the towns surrounding the trail, to the post office workers, to trail angels that give you a hitch without a second thought, the LT has one of the most robust communities I've ever encountered. I'm hesitant to gush too much about the positive experiences I had, but I will tell you that when I hurt my leg and staggered off of the trail and into town, I was provided medical services by a doctor who had hiked the trail with his son the previous year. He didn't charge me a dime for his time, expertise, or even the xrays he took - and after he told me that I should cease my hike he took me out for a beer. This is just one example of the trail magic I experienced, and my gratitude toward the individuals who made it happen is boundless.

Wednesday, June 6, 2012

An Indefinite Hiatus


It appears I have a stress fracture in my right fibula. So this hike is over - hopefully I'll be able to come back sooner than later.


I ended up getting a ride to my van up near North Troy from an old friend who ended up renting a new Mustang. That was a fun ride, although I couldn't help but think about all the trail miles I was speeding past.


I ended up heading to Michigan to visit my friend Hilary for a week. I had a blast and both Ramius and I loved the option to swim and kayak every single day.

As things stand now, I'm hopeful that we'll get back next summer - but one can never know these things. I'll post something later about what was learned on this hike and how it will influence future ones.

Friday, June 1, 2012

Day 4

We maintained our habit of being late risers this morning - stirring around 7:45am and getting up around 8:30am. I just cannot abide the cold int he morning, and it would seem Ramius cannot either since he normally stays in the sleeping bag longer than I do. We awoke alongside several of the shelter's bunkmates and had a nice breakfast with them until we departed around 9:30am. Notably, this breakfast lead to our being christened 'Boone and the Goon.'


The trail became more and more covered in debris as we moved north-east, presumably from Hurricane Irene last fall. And now comes the hard part of the story: I injured myself. We cam upon a fallen tree that was lengthwise along the trail, and I set down my poles so I could carry Ramius along/across the tree's length. When I returned for my poles and pivoted to face Ramius, my foot slipped and I fell. This caused my right leg to slam up and into the tree's trunk. My leg became swollen and I developed a limp.


I made the judgement call to bypass Stratton Mountain and take the side trail 'Stratton Pond Trail' until it met up again with the LT. My leg became progressively worse, so I decided I needed a night off of the trail in Manchester Center. We continued along the LT past the turnoff to William B. Douglass shelter, but broke away from the trail near Prospect Rock and continued along Old Rootville Road into Manchester.




We ended up staying here, at the Avalanche Motel Manchester, and I am currently eating some delicious pizza with my leg elevated. All I can say is thank god for Vitamin I! I have a doctor's appointment scheduled first thin in the morning to see if I can continue immediately or need to take some time off of the trail. We shall see.

-A
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Miles Traveled: 14.75
Miles from CA: 224.25
Miles from MA: 48.05

Total Miles Traveled: 53.45

Thursday, May 31, 2012

Day 3

Today I want to begin not with how the day began, but with how it is ending. I am sitting at a wooden table eating wasabi potatoes with salmon - well, I am sharing it with Ramius, who may need an extra scoop of food tonight. Actually, give me a moment while I grab that.

Story Spring Shelter
Okay! Anyhow, I am at Story Spring Shelter with 5 other people and actually got a spot inside tonight. Turns out they are the same few people that were at Melville Nauheim last night. Pretty serendipitous, I'd say. Although, they are not a very talkative group.


We started out this morning at about 9:20am. This was after waking up around 8:45am, having breakfast, breaking camp, and refilling our water. As we left the shelter, we ran into two AT hikers that were keen on getting to Killington in the next two days. They also mentioned that they stayed in Bennington last night at a fire house. Apparently they still had a bunch of supplies for when Hurricane Irene came through last year and gave them copious amounts of civilian MREs.


We set off shortly after them and put on a good pace so as to get all the way to Story spring tonight. It took us just under four hours to reach Goddard Shelter where we refilled water and had a long lunch. Just past Goddard (0.3 miles) is the summite of Glastenbury Mountain and a fire tower with spectacular views. I should mention that on our way to Goddard we ran into a couple of girls also hiking the LT, but travelling at a much slower pace.


After the fire tower we headed toward Kid Gore Shelter, which was supposed to take about 2.5 hours - we did it in 2. Along the way, which is almost all down hill, we ran into 3 somewhat haggard looking hikers that were very concerned about how far Kid Gorew was from their position. I told them I thought it less than 2 miles and headed on.


We never actually saw Kid Gore, choosing to just continue onward past the turnoff. We soon passed a slick stream where we saw our first aquatic frog. I'd seen many toads up to this point, but no frogs. Anyhow, I figured this somewhat uphill hike of ~5 miles would take us about 3 hours, but it took us just under 2.5. So, we arrived at Story Spring around 6:30pm and I began preparing dinner.


-A
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Miles Traveled: 17.3
Miles from CA: 239.4
Miles from MA: 33.3

Total Miles Traveled: 38.7

P.S. we are 1/10 of the way to Canada!
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Wednesday, May 30, 2012

Day 2

Apparently Elyse and the Rain Gods have some sort of connection, because the rain stopped at about 4 or 5am and made our 8am start much drier. The trail was (obviously) quite muddy and was difficult to pass at times, though we made the best of it.

It turns out that we were only about 0.3 miles from Seth Warner shelter - a place we did not visit due to its 0.2 mile distance from the primary trail. So, we continued on and pushed hard for Congdon Shelter, which marks the 10.0 mile mark of the LT.


This part of the day was marked with many 'false summits,' so to speak, as I am unfamiliar with the area and the terrain we are traversing. I think I will put together a check-point sheet tomorrow so that I will be more aware of our progress.


At Congdon Shelter we had a small fire - no easy feat considering the wetness of all the wood available - and cooked some lunch while resting and drying out the tent and fly from the previous night's rain. We spent about 1.5 hours there, which was way too long considering I wanted to push another 5.9 miles to Melville Nauheim Shelter - estimated to take another 3.75 hours.


After continuing on for another couple of miles we ran into a man and his dog along a boardwalk. He was quite friendly and I have to admit that it was heartening to have contact with another person - even if for only a few moments. I had to laugh when he was concerned about Ramius' pack and suggested I carry it for him. I smiled and thanked him for the advice before continuing onward.

At about 3pm it started to rain lightly (damned Rain Gods!) and I called Lauren to have her check on the weather. "Rain 'til 7pm,' she said. So, we took our packs off and hunkered down in the tent for a few hours - napping most of the time. I'm definitely going to have to find a way to acclimate Ramius to hiking in the rain so that we won't have these delays all of the time.


After the rain we continued along and made the arduous journey down to VT 9. This huge drop in elevation is almost completely along a path with large stones that one must navigate and walk over. The rain resulted in slick conditions on these rocks and I ended up slipping and taking a few falls. Needless to say, I was elated when we finally reached the road and the end of the 1st Division of the LT. 1/12 of the way there!

It was another 1.5 hours to Melville Nauheim and we arrived shortly after 9pm. The shelter was full and we ended up camping behind it. Dinner for me consisted of a few handfuls of Peanut Butter M&Ms. I was just too worn out to worry about cooking. Hopefully tomorrow will go more smoothly.


-A
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Miles Traveled: 13.6
Miles from CA: 256.8
Miles from MA: 15.9

Total Miles Traveled: 21.4

Tuesday, May 29, 2012

Day 1

Ramius and I did not get out of Williamstown, MA, until about 2pm or so. We wished Elyse safe travels and immediately started working on packaging meals and packing up our packs. We left the inn (Williams Inn, which was an alright place to stay) at around 12:30pm. We took a cab to the post office and sent packages to Killington, Johnson, and North Troy. After that, we had to walk the ~2.5 miles to the Pine Cobble trailhead. This part of the day was miserable - the heat, traffic, and uphill walk were all aggravated by the sheer level of exposure to the sun.

After arriving at the trailhead, I sat down in the shade and made a few last calls - I don't plan on making any more until I reach Journey's End and will rather rely on text messages if they're required. Part of what I am looking forward to on this trek is a sense of solitude and remoteness.


Eventually, we started making our way along the awful Pine Cobble trail. I refer to it as such due to its steepness and rockiness. This 1.5-mile stretch was deeply concerning and mildly discouraging. My fears left me, however, when the trail met up with the AT for another 1.2 miles before we were greeted with a sign marking the beginning of the LT and the Vermont-Massachusetts border. 


I should have mentioned earlier that it had been thundering all day and the that cabby had mentioned possible tornado watches in the evening. This is significant because before we had even arrived at the Seth Warner Shelter (2.8 miles north), it started to rain, thunder, and lightening like mad. I quickly put up the tent - keep in mind we were already hopelessly soaked at this point - and we clamored inside. Ramius, who has never liked any kind of rain, trembled for a time before I pulled out the sleeping bag and hunkered down with him.


Thus, I am now writing here, the Wee-Guy fast asleep, and getting some weather info from Elyse - it seems it is supposed to rain straight until Thursday, with a 2-hour window between 7 and 9am without rain. I figure we will head to Seth Warner at that point and wait it out, though Elyse promised to wish the Rain Gods away - so who knows?

-A
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Miles Traveled: 7.8
Miles from CA: 270.5
Miles from MA: 2.0

Total Miles Traveled: 7.8
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Tuesday, May 22, 2012

Prelude

Well, it has begun! Elyse, Ramius, and I are on our way from Denver to Vermont. The plan is to stop in Lytton, IA, to do some chores for my mom at the farm and then immediately head for Chicago to visit Elyse's best friend Maggie. After that, we will head to Toronto, Ontario, Canada, in order to see my old friend Amelia, who is a student there. Next we will head to Washington D.C. for a couple of days, followed by a day in Boston, and then to Vermont!

While it should be immensely entertaining, I don't plan on writing anymore about this part of the trip.

Taken at the farm. Lytton, IA.